What is an anti-tip bracket and why do I need one?

Why did anti-tip show up on my home inspection report and is this a safety defect?

A missing anti-tip bracket is a common safety defect found during most home inspections. An anti-tip bracket is a safety device that is mounted to the floor behind an oven that holds a foot of the oven in place. If properly installed, the anti-tip bracket does not allow the oven to tip forward, potentially preventing injury from the appliance.

Where can an anti-tip bracket be purchased?

Anti-tip brackets come with the appliance when they are purchased new. If a new home owner moves into a house and an anti-tip bracket is not installed, it can generally be purchased online for $10 - $25 from your preferred online retailer or from a local hardware store. 

How is an anti-tip bracket installed?

Installing an anti-bracket is generally pretty simple. The oven will need to be slid out of its current location and the spot where it will be installed should be marked. Place the anti-tip device in the desired location and then drive a screw/bolt into the ground until it is secure. Slide the oven back into place ensuring the rear foot is secure in the anti-tip bracket. 

For a typical anti-tip bracket installation, watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNH_G5ujAKY

How do I fix a broken window seal or fogged window?

Why did your window fog up, and what you need to do to see things clearly again?

This is an example of a fogged window found in a Phoenix home inspection. The right window pane is fogged and the left is not.

The problem with your window most likely a broken window seal. Today’s windows have two or three panes of glass separated by air space and sealed around the edges with a flexible elastic sealant to keep humidity out, unlike single panes windows of the past. These insulated glass unit (IGU) windows are known as double-pane, multipaned, or thermopane. The gas found between the panes of glass contains an inert gas, such as argon or krypton. The gas helps reduce the transfer of outdoor heat or cold through the window.

The most common sign of a broken window seal is visible condensation.

The failure of the flexible seal can cause humid air to enter between the panes and cause the fog you are seeing. The fog may lessen or worsen depending on weather and humidity conditions. Now that seal is broken, any inert gas has escaped, and the insulating factor has diminished.

This is an example of a fogged window found in a Phoenix home inspection. There is heavy condensation observed in this window.

Windows that receive many hours of sunlight a day are at increased risk of failure of the window seals.

With the hot sun shining on the window, the glass expands and puts pressure on the seal, as the temperature cools overnight the glass contracts. This repeated expansion and contraction is known as “solar pumping,” causes the window seals to harden and fail. As a result, windows on the west and south sides of a house receive more sun usually fail before the window on the east and north sides of a home.

There are other reasons for window seals to fail.

The window seal can fail if anything damages the sealant material. The cause of this can be:

• Poor window installation causing pressure on the glass.

• Pressure on the glass when a house settles.

• High winds

• chemicals that can dissolve the sealant material

Replacing the IGU (insulated glass unit) is the best way to ensure a clear view.

Removing the IGU (insulated glass unit) from the sash is best for a contractor who understands how a window comes apart. Once removed, a replacement ordered, a new IGU fitted into the sash, the sash reassembled, and put back into the window. 

See if the window is under warranty. If so, call the manufacturer to fix the broken window seal.

Depending on the quality and manufacturer, the guarantee for window seals usually ranges from three to 15 years. If the window fails in that time, the manufacturer often provides a replacement at no cost. With this scenario, the homeowner is on the hook for paying the contractor the labor to replace the window.

Replacing the entire window might be the only option if it is old.

If the window is in good shape, just replacing the IGU is an excellent option. However, if the window is warped, challenging to open, or the hardware is difficult to use, it might just be better to replace the entire window. Saving on the labor cost is possible if you’re an adventurous DIYer with basic carpentry skills. 

Using a few precautions can help prevent broken window seals.

A little care can go a long way with the longevity of your window seals.

• Inspect your windows in the fall before it starts to get cold. Caulk any gaps between the panes and the sash for additional protection.

• Don’t add any tint to your windows without checking the manufacturer’s warranty. Using a window tint can void the warranty in some cases.

• Keep away from using a pressure washer to clean the outside of your windows. Water can work its way into the seals and damage them.

• Keep chemical window stripper away from the window sash near the panes.

What is a dishwasher high loop and why do you need one?

A dishwasher high loop is one of the most common defects found during a home inspection and it is very simple to repair. 

(An example of drainline without a high loop)

What is a high loop?

A dishwasher is usually installed to drain directly into the garbage disposal or sink plumbing. If the drain line is installed with a proper high loop, the drain line is raised and connected to the underside of the countertop or cabinet creating a high loop. It basically looks like an upside down P-trap that is commonly found under the sink.

Why is a high loop needed?

(An example of a drainline with a high loop)

A dishwasher drainline without a high loop would be connected to the disposal and then laid horizontally in the bottom of the cabinet. Without a high loop, dirty water from the sink can collect into the drainline and even back up into the dishwasher. This can cause odors and allow waste water from the sink to enter into the dishwasher. 

How is a high loop installed?

Installing a high loop is generally pretty easy. The easiest method is to install a bracket to the underside of the countertop to hold the drain line. Another alternative is to use a zip-tie to hold the 

It is becoming fairly common in new dishwashers where the manufacturers are pre-installing them. Although this is becoming a regular practice, a home inspector will still call out the lack of a visible high loop. While the person who installed the dishwasher may have seen a pre-installed high loop on the side of the dishwasher and not installed one under the sink, the home inspector has no way of knowing if this is the case and will write it up as a defect. It is recommended to check the manufacturing specifications of the dishwasher to see if the high loop is already built in, but most dishwasher manufacturers will still recommend the high loop be added under the sink during installation.

What to Know About Galvanized Pipes

Many homes built before the 1970s have galvanized plumbing. Galvanized pipes are steel pipes covered with a protective layer of zinc.

Galvanized plumbing was a popular choice in new homes but was discontinued after discovering that the zinc coating erodes over time. As the outer layer of zinc wears away, corrosion can start to build up within the pipes causing the potential for harmful substances to affect your home's water supply.

Most galvanized pipes were used in the 1950s and 1960s with lead service lines, causing them to release lead as they erode. The lead released from the walls of these pipes contaminates the home's water supply. The ingestion of lead can be a health hazard.

Although lead water piping was discontinued in the 1960s, galvanized pipes were still in use as late as 1990. The corrosion caused by these pipes can build up in the water supply.

An easy way to determine if a home has galvanized pipes is to look where the piping enters the home and scratch the piping. If the pipe looks like a copper penny, then it is copper plumbing. If it is galvanized steel, the area will look silvery grey and have threads.

If the pipe is not copper or galvanized, it most likely is a plastic PVC or PEX pipe. PVC is typically white and PEX is usually blue, red, or white. Another material, polybutylene piping, could be a milky grey or black.

The average lifespan of galvanized piping is 40-50 years. However, plumbing that is well built, well installed, and well maintained can easily exceed this. If a house has galvanized pipes, it is essential to know how old they are. If the lines are from the 1960s or earlier, they will be near the end of their functional lifespan.

Is Aluminum Wiring Dangerous?

Since it is believed to be the cause of many house fires, the everyday usage of aluminum wiring installed during the 1970s is no longer allowed in most cities. If installed correctly, aluminum wire can be as safe as copper wire. When installed incorrectly, aluminum wire can become very problematic.

All electrical wiring expands and contracts at different rates. When aluminum wire expands and contracts, it does so at a greater rate than copper and this is where the problem lies with aluminum wiring. After several of these expanding and contracting cycles, the metal tends to lose its ability to remain tight. This leads to aluminum wiring becoming disconnected from the receptacles and creates arching, which leads to house fires. 

Aluminum (when in contact with other metals such as copper) tends to oxidize and cause serious problems. The oxidized aluminum becomes hotter while attempting to conduct the same amount of electricity, causing more oxidation. This cycle will eventually cause the wires to become extremely hot and possibly cause a fire.

Suppose a house is discovered to have aluminum wiring during the inspection process. If this is the case, it is recommended to hire a licensed electrician to check for any potential problems.

There are a few options for correction. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) only recommends the three following methods for correction of aluminum wiring:

• Rewire the home with copper wire. Most of the time, this is expensive and impractical. 

• Using COPALUM connectors to pigtail the aluminum wiring to copper. (Pigtailing involves connecting a short piece of insulated copper wire between the aluminum wire and the switch or receptacle connecting terminals.) This method would need to be performed by a licensed electrician who is also a certified COPALUM installer. 

• Using AlumiConn™ lug connectors to attach copper wiring to the existing aluminum wiring. This should also be done by a licensed electrician who is familiar with these techniques since these require very specific installation instructions and proper installation is critical for these devices.

Any other methods of “fixing” aluminum wiring is not CPSC approved. Aluminum wiring can be a fire hazard due to the inherent qualities of the metal. Identification and correction will decrease the chances of an electrical fire.

For additional information on how to properly repair aluminum wiring, please see: https://inspectapedia.com/aluminum/Aluminum_Wiring_Repair_Methods.php

How do you tell the age of an AC unit?

Why would you want to know the age of an AC unit?

When purchasing a home, it is important to look at some of the more expensive components of a property. This will help you to have a better understanding of the condition of the property and also help you to budget for potential future repairs. Having an idea of the age of an AC unit can provide some insight into its potential longevity. Of course, with proper and frequent maintenance an AC unit can last longer, but finding out the age is a great starting point for estimating the units lifespan.

Where can I find the age?

Almost always, the answer lies within the serial number. Each manufacturer has a different marking to tell the age, but once the code is cracked, it is very easy to figure out the age of the AC system.

In this example, the date code is the first four numbers of the serial number are the age of the AC unit. The designation is the 26th week of 2015.

In this example, the date code is the first four numbers of the serial number are the age of the AC unit. The designation is the 11th month of 2017.

In this example, the date code is the first four numbers of the serial number (after the three letters) are the age of the AC unit. The designation is the 1st month of 2015.

In this example, the date code is clearly marked in the upper right hand corner. The designation is the 5th month of 2021.

The resource that we use as home inspectors in Phoenix can be found at https://www.building-center.org. This website will provide you with a list of most of the existing (and past) manufacturers and the format that they use to date their system. Once you are on the website, you choose the brand and then match the style (manufacturers change their styles from time to time) with the serial number on the unit. In just a few simple steps, you will be armed with the knowledge of the age of the AC unit!

Preventing Dryer Fires

Clogged vents, ducts, and filters are the primary cause of dryer fires. According to the U.S. Fire Administration, 2,900 home clothes dryer fires are reported each year and cause $435 million in property loss.

To help prevent a dryer fire:

• Clean the lint filter before and after each load of laundry.

• Keep the area behind the dryer free of lint.

• Have the vent duct cleaned regularly.  

• Do not put plastic, rubber, and foam items in they dryer. Most of these are generally not suited for clothes dryers.

• Have gas-powered dryers inspected every year by a professional to ensure that the gas line and connection are secure and free of leaks.

Taking the time to reduce the chance of a dryer fire is time well spent.

How do I fix a frozen garbage disposal?

From time to time, garbage disposal motors may freeze, leaving them ineffective. This is easily identified by turning on the disposal and only hearing a light hum as opposed to the grinding and crushing of a properly functioning garbage disposal. This is usually the result of an object getting stuck in the disposal or possibly the appliance had not been in use for an extended period of time.

Finding the reset button and use a wrench

On the bottom of most garbage disposals, there is a reset switch (usually a red button) and a hexagonal socket (an area where you can insert an Allen wrench). The Allen wrench would need to be inserted (typically they come with a disposal) into the hexagonal socket and gentle pressure applied in an attempt to get the wrench to spin. If the wrench is able to get the disposal to spin, success! Now try the switch and see if the disposal is functioning properly. At this time, it would be a good idea to check for leaks from the disposal or any of the plumbing connected to it.

Please note, if the disposal is significantly frozen, attempting to free it may break the disposal and/or cause it to leak. If this occurs, it is easy to get a new disposal and install it.

Reference video for installation:

For a typical garbage disposal installation, watch this video: How to Install a Garbage Disposal | Ask This Old House

Can a leaking garbage disposal be fixed?

The ability to fix a leaking garbage disposal really depends on where the leaking is originating. 

How do you find where it is leaking?

If it is suspected that the garbage disposal is leaking, the source of the leak will need to be investigated. A flashlight and towel (after all, it is leaking) will be needed. Also, since mixing electricity and water, it will be important to unplug the garbage disposal and turn off the breaker to the appliance. Safety first! 

Leaking from the plumbing pipes

If the leaking is occurring from the plumbing connection, then the answer is most likely yes, the leak can be fixed. This also depends on whether or not the garbage disposal was significantly damaged from the leaking. Usually, a plumbing leak can be pretty easily fixed as it can only be from a few sources. It may be as simple as tightening a clamp or replacing a gasket or the sealant at the flange.

Leaking from the housing

If the leaking is occurring from the garbage disposal itself, then the answer is typically no, the leak cannot be repaired. Garbage disposals are typically not very expensive ($50 - $150) and easy enough to install that it does not warrant the time and energy to attempt to repair the appliance. Once there is a leak in the disposal, it is recommended that it be replaced with a new unit to help prevent any future damage to the cabinetry.

For a typical garbage disposal installation, watch this video: https://youtu.be/fedvNYrsLT0

Top 10 Mistakes New Home Buyers Make

For many years throughout the 90’s and early 2000’s, real estate went up dramatically and everyone wanted a piece of home ownership. Unfortunately, the real estate bubble burst in 2008 and 2009 showed the dark side of home ownership. Still, owning a home is one of the best things you can do to build wealth, and many want to own a home to have a place to settle down. Read on for the top 10 mistakes new home buyers make so you can avoid them and make home ownership a positive experience.

1. Stretching to get into a house: If you can’t quite afford your house payments, this could become a problem for several reasons. First, a minor financial blip- such as a lost job- could cause you to be unable to pay and send your home into foreclosure. In addition, you may not have the money to make necessary repairs and the home could fall into disrepair and decline in value 

2. Not understanding your mortgage: Many homeowners lost their houses to foreclosure in 2007 and 2008 when their mortgage payments jumped up exponentially and became unaffordable. This occurred for many because they had adjustable-rate mortgages they didn’t understand. Make sure you completely understand the terms of your mortgage and what your monthly payments will be. Generally, the safest option is a fixed-rate mortgage in which your payments stay the same for the entire term of the mortgage. 

3. Not having an emergency fund: Homes are a wonderful thing, but they can also have problems. A leaky roof, a furnace that breaks, or a flood in the basement can cost you hundreds if not thousands of dollars. If you don’t have an emergency fund, these realities of home ownership can become huge issues. 

4. Not working with a realtor: A real estate agent is an expert in the housing market and can guide you through the entire buying process from finding a home to making an offer. If you don’t use a realtor you may miss out on seeing homes that were a better deal. Likewise, you may make an offer that is too high or overlook something about a property that an expert would have caught. 

5. Not researching property values: You don’t want to pay too much for a property or pay more than it is worth. Find out what similar properties are going for and make your offer in line with those.

6. Not getting pre-approved for a mortgage: Before you begin shopping for a house, you should go to a mortgage lender with your financial data and find out how much they are willing to lend you. Not only does this make the process quicker when you actually find a house, but you also won’t waste time and energy looking at houses that are outside of your price range. 

7. Falling in love with the first house you see: It can be easy to get caught up in the excitement and think you have found your dream house. Still, if you don’t look around first and explore all your options, you may regret it. 

8. Not researching the neighborhoods: Location is often the most important factor in what happens to the value of your property. Find out about the school district and what the neighborhood is like before you buy. 

9. Misunderstanding the realities of home ownership: With home-ownership comes responsibility. Not only will you have to foot the cost of repairs yourself, but you will also be responsible for landscaping, lawn mowing, gardening and all the other things apartment-dwellers don’t have to worry about. Furthermore, you can’t just pick up and move when you have a house.

10. Assuming property values will always go up: For a long time, it was believed that your home was a source of instant wealth. When the real estate bubble burst in 2008 and 2009, many homeowners got a harsh wake-up call.

Source: http://enlightenme.com/top-10-mistakes-new-home-buyers-make/

Keep Your House in Tip-Top Shape:

An Incredibly Handy Home Maintenance Checklist

When buying a home, most people probably first think of the financial responsibility. Don’t let yourself forget, however, about the time and labor that home ownership also requires. Just like regular oil changes for your car keep your engine happy and healthy, keeping up with regular home maintenance tasks will keep you from future headaches and wasted money.

It can be intimidating to think about these various tasks, especially if you’re a new homeowner. It’s a long list — there’s no denying that. The good news is that you can do the majority of it on your own without much experience. Google is your best friend, and if you really get stuck, call up your local handyman to help you out.

In order to maximize your efficiency and actually get all of these tasks done, you might want to create a home maintenance calendar for yourself. Whether online or on paper, you can jot down small, regular tasks for each weekend and not be too overwhelmed. We’ve listed tasks that need to be done monthly, quarterly, and biannually. We’ve also given you a list of tasks to be completed seasonally. Not every expert agrees as to which task needs to be done in which season, so this isn’t a black and white list, necessarily. Do what works for you and your schedule, and as long as all these things get accomplished, your home will be happy for years and years to come.

MONTHLY

• Inspect, and possibly change out HVAC filters. Many experts will say to change the filters monthly, but that’s not always necessary. For smaller families without pets or allergies, you’ll likely be okay changing the filters every 2-3 months. If the filter is dirty, change it out, otherwise inspect it again next month. I’ve also been told by handymen to go with cheaper filters and replace them more often versus going with the expensive filters.

• Clean kitchen sink disposal. There are a bunch of ways to do this, but the handiest and best all-around solution seems to be vinegar ice cubes. Put some vinegar in an ice tray and let it freeze, then run the ice cubes through the disposal. It freshens it, but as a bonus, ice sharpens the blades. You’re welcome.

• Clean range hood filters. If you’ve never thought of doing this, you’re in for a real “treat” when you get that filter off the hood to clean it for the first time. The Family Handyman suggests simply using a degreaser from an auto parts store mixed with hot water. Let the filter sit for a few minutes, rinse it off, and you’re good to go.

• Inspect your fire extinguisher(s). We’ll assume you have and know how to use an extinguisher. This inspection doesn’t require much: ensure it has easy access (not being blocked by a garbage can or anything else), that the gauge shows adequate pressure, and that it has no visible signs of wear and tear.

QUARTERLY

• Test smoke/carbon dioxide detectors. Another simple task; your detectors should have a “test” button. If the alarm sounds, you’re good to go. If not, replace batteries immediately and test again. If it still doesn’t sound, it’s possible there’s simply corrosion on the battery terminal, and it won’t detect new batteries.  Clean it and try again. If it still doesn’t work, you’ll likely need a new detector.

• Test garage door auto-reverse feature. In 1993, federal law required all garage doors to have this feature after multiple child deaths. Test every month by placing a 2×4 on the ground where the door would close. It should reverse after a second or so when the door hits the wood. Also test the photo-electric sensors if you have them by placing something in front of them (not your body). If the door doesn’t immediately go back up, you have a problem.

• Run water and flush toilets in unused spaces. This mostly applies to guest bathrooms, or any other sinks/water sources you don’t use on a regular basis. The idea is to prevent grime or any other kind of build up. Regularly running a little bit of water through will prevent this.

• Check water softener, add salt if needed. You shouldn’t need to add salt every month, but better to check anyway, as it only takes about 5 seconds.

BIANNUALLY

• Test your water heater’s pressure relief valve. This will prevent mineral and corrosion buildup, which safeguards against leaks. It will also help your heater run more efficiently.

• Give your house a deep clean. Take one Saturday every six months with your whole family, and give the whole house a proper deep clean. Appliances, windows, dusting every nook and cranny (including the basement), etc. Keeping things clean and not letting dirt/grime/dust build up over years and years will help keep your home in tip-top shape.

• Replace batteries in smoke/carbon dioxide detectors. I’d never heard this before, actually. I just assumed you changed it out when it started giving you the low battery beeping noise. This tip was in everything we researched, however. With something as important as this, you can’t be too careful, and batteries won’t break your bank. Change ‘em out every six months.

• Vacuum your refrigerator coils. I actually learned this tip from a refrigerator repairman, and our research confirmed it. The fridge can use up to 15 percent of your home’s total power, so you want it running as efficiently as possible. Over time, the coils get dirty and your fridge requires more juice. You can save up to $100 a year by doing this, and it’s not at all a difficult task.

ANNUALLY (ORGANIZED BY SEASON) 

SPRING

Spring is a big month for home maintenance. They don’t call it “Spring Cleaning” for nothing. Especially focus on the exterior of your home as it’s just gone through winter and is preparing for summer heat, and in some parts of the country, brutal humidity.

• Check the exterior drainage. Will rain water flow away from the house? Puddles should not stand around your home for more than 24 hours. If water stays, or moves toward your foundation, you have a few options. First, check your gutters. It could be a bad spout or a loose connection there; they may also just need cleaning. Second, you can grade the area around your home yourself with some dirt; this has worked just fine for me in the past. Third, for pavement, you can have professionals come out and raise it so it drains away from your home.

• Clean out gutters. They’ve likely accumulated leaves from the fall and grime/sediment from the winter snows and/or rains.

• Inspect the exterior of your home. Is any paint chipping? Is any siding damaged from winter? Are there any holes in your brick? Take a close look all around your house, and make any repairs as needed. Also be sure to check the foundation for any cracks. A good silicone/caulk can fix a lot of your problems.

• Get your air conditioning system ready for summer; consider having it serviced.This one really depends on your individual home, and even which part of the country you live in. Some places mostly just use window air units, while other places (like my home in Colorado) use a big swamp cooler up on the roof — these are fairly basic machines where a quick internet search can help you fix any issues that come up. Also refer to the user guides for specific regular maintenance. Central air is obviously a more complex system. Getting it serviced by a professional should be around $100 or less, and it will save money and headaches down the road.

• Repair/replace damaged window screens. You don’t want bugs making their way in because you missed a hole in a window screen. And no, duct tape doesn’t count. It can be a quick fix, but don’t leave it for long. It just looks bad.

• Clear dead plants/shrubs from the house. This could double as a gardening tip, but if you didn’t trim trees or shrubs in the fall, do so now. Plants can weasel their way into cracks and holes on the exterior of your home, causing damage and shortened longevity. Nip that in the bud before it’s an issue. If you have decorative vines on the exterior, pay close attention.

• Check trees for interference with electric lines. Have professionally trimmed if necessary.

• Inspect roofing for damage, leaks, etc. Repair as needed; you may need a professional.

SUMMER

Summer is a great time to focus on the exterior of your home, as well as your lawn and garden. It’s also perfect for having that garage door open and utilizing the prolonged daylight to work on any manly projects you’ve had on the backburner.

• Check grout in bathrooms, kitchen, etc.; repair as needed. This will prolong the life of your tiled surfaces and just looks better.

• Inspect plumbing for leaks, clean aerators on faucets. Go around to all your faucets and toilets and check for any small leaks. If you have poor water pressure out of a faucet, the aerator is the likely culprit and it’s an extremely easy fix.

• Take care of any insect problems you may have. Summer is their playground. You probably won’t have to look too hard to notice any insect problems. Ants, spiders, moths, etc. are all common, and fairly easy to take care of. Keep cobwebs clear, have ant poison handy, make sure all doors are tightly closed, etc. If termites are common in your area, this handy article gives some tips on how you can do some inspection and prevention yourself.

• Clean and repair deck/patio as needed. It generally just needs a good washing. A deck may also need re-staining. Also check for any loose boards or posts and repair as needed.

• Clean out window wells of debris. If you have a basement, you also have window wells. All kinds of things can get down in there from leaves, to trash, to animals.

• Check and clean dryer vent, other exhaust vents to exterior of home. While the dryer is running, check that the exhaust is coming out. It should smell nicely of fresh laundry. If there isn’t much exhaust, check for blockages as well as you can. You may need a professional. Also vacuum the lint from the hose at the dryer.

• Clean garage. Cleaning the garage should be a summer ritual for every man. Keeping it clean and tidy will extend its life, and it often gets neglected of regular care. With all the extra dust it gets from the manly projects you’re working on, you should actually clean it even more. Once a year, however, give a thorough going-through.

FALL

Fall is an in-between season where you’re finishing up your summer home maintenance tasks as well as getting your home ready for winter. Cold, snow, and rain can do a number to a home, so you don’t want to ignore winter preparation.

• Flush hot water heater and remove sediment. This prolongs the life of the heater and helps with efficiency as well.

• Winterize air conditioning systems. Remove and store window units. If you have central air, cover the outside unit with a tarp or plastic sheeting and secure with bungee cords.

• Get heating system ready for winter. Check for any leaks in windows or doors; these can cost an arm and a leg. Make sure heating vents are open and not blocked by furniture. Get furnace serviced/inspected at least every other year, preferably annually. As with the AC, this shouldn’t be a huge expense. Don’t forget about fireplaces if you have them.

• Turn off and flush outdoor water faucets. Also flush hoses and store them. Winterize sprinkler systems as well, if you have one.

• Get chimney cleaned, if you have one. Some folks say to do this in the spring, some say fall. Either way, just make sure it’s done once per year.

• Test sump pump. You don’t want to wait until you need your sump pump to find out it’s not working.

• Check driveway/pavement for cracks. Make sure to have re-sealed before winter; water can freeze and expand in the cracks, causing more damage.

• Buy winter gear. Have sidewalk salt, good shovels, etc. ready for winter. You never know when that first snow will come!

WINTER

Winter is the time to go around the interior of your home and check for any little things you may have overlooked, or perhaps noticed and said, “I’ll get to that later.” Winter is your later. If you have any interior honey-do projects, whether it be painting, building shelves, etc., now is a great time to tackle those as well.

• Regularly check for ice dams and icicles. De-icing cables that sit at the front of the roof work well. Don’t let icicles grow, as much as the kids may want you to. They’re not only a danger to people standing beneath them, but they’re incredibly heavy and can cause damage to your home. They also can cause water damage to your foundation when theymelt.

• Test your electricity to the extent that you can. Always, always be extra careful when working with electricity. You can do a couple things on your own, though. Check that all outlets work; if they don’t, you can re-wire them on your own. Also, test your GFCI outlets. There are wildly varying opinions on how often to test this. Some say monthly, others say annually.

• Tighten any handles, knobs, racks, etc. Go through the house and inspect anything that could have a loose screw.

• Check all locks and deadbolts on your doors and windows. If anything doesn’t work right, replace.

• Check caulking around showers and bathtubs; repair as needed.

• Remove showerheads and clean sediment. This prolongs its life and helps with water pressure as well.

• Deep clean and inspect the basement. Basements are notoriously overlooked, especially if they’re primarily just storage areas. Dust ‘em up, clean any windows, make sure there isn’t mold anywhere, etc. Give your basement a good inspection at least once a year.

While this list is certainly extensive, it’s not a complete list of all the things you can do for your home. What do you do to keep your home in tip-top shape? Do you have any hacks for doing these tasks as efficiently and effectively as possible?

Source: Author Jeremy Anderberg

Basic Lawn Care Tips

8 tips on keeping your grass green

Authored By: Melanie Haiken

You know a healthy lawn when you see it: a smooth, lush green carpet, perfect for cartwheels and croquet. So why doesn't your lawn look like that? To get that perfect lawn you may have to change your mindset, says landscape designer Gary Alan (www.garyalan.com). "You know how in golf they say 'Be the ball'? Well, you've got to be the grass. You've got to think about what it needs," Gary says. The basics, he says, are pretty simple: sun, water and fertilizer. Once you get those down, everyone's happy — you and your lawn. Here's how to get started.

Setting Soil

Planting a new lawn is like any good adventure: preparation and planning are key. No matter which planting method you plan to use, you need to prepare the area thoroughly to banish weeds and make sure soil won't immediately crust over or compact into lumpy ruts. John Griggs, a master gardener in West Virginia, says the most important step — and one that many gardeners skip — is testing the pH of your soil. Do-it-yourself test kids are available from nurseries and catalogs, or you can take advantage of the testing offered by your state's designated agricultural university. "It might seem like a hassle, but testing your soil will save you from pouring money into the ground," John says.

Start by stripping the area of all weeds, including roots, even if that means taking off the top six inches. Then rototill to a depth of at least six inches to loosen compaction and improve drainage. It's extremely important to add loam and compost to enrich the soil; many experts suggest mixing equal parts of loam, sand and your original topsoil. You're best off in the long run if you incorporate a slight slope to facilitate drainage and prevent pooling. Finally, use a roller to pack down the soil, then grade the area with a metal rake. Be as thorough as you can — remember, once you've put your seed or sod down, you can't go back and regrade.

To Seed or Not to Seed

No question but rolling out a carpet of sod is the quickest way to a beautiful lawn. But sod can get expensive, especially if your lawn is going to cover a large area. The alternative is seeding the area yourself, either by hand or with a method called hydroseeding, which has recently become quite popular. Long used by farmers to sow large fields, hydroseeding solves one of the main problems of hand seeding: even dispersal of seeds. The grass seed — a mix of varieties blended for your climate and the type of use your lawn will get — is mixed into a pulp made from virgin wood fibers, fertilizer and binding agents.

Shave and a Haircut

When it comes to sharing lawn secrets, the first one on many garden experts' lips is mowing height. "Most people mow their lawns way too short, which stresses out the grass," says Paul James, host of Gardening by the Yard. The secret, he says, is do less, not more: "I'm a great believer in benign neglect." He recommends raising the mower to the highest possible notch so you're mowing only the top third of the grass when you cut. Taller grass promotes better root development, Paul says, as well as shading the ground so it doesn't dry out as fast. An added benefit: the taller grass blocks the sun that weed seeds require to germinate. And don't believe for a moment that leaving grass taller is going to mean mowing more often, says Gary. "There's a big misunderstanding that a lot of people have that if they cut it shorter, they won't have to mow it as often," say Gary. "But that's absolutely false; it renews itself so fast that it doesn't save you any time."

Water, Water Everywhere

"Water only once a week, but water deep" is the rule according to Paul. A weekly soaking helps roots extend deeper into the soil, while frequent shallow waterings tend to lead to thatch, that unsightly web of dry brown runners just above the soil. Watering deeply can also prevent chinch bugs, a pest that tends to attach dried, stressed out lawns across the midsection of the country. To figure out how much water your lawn needs, take your soil type into account: sandy soils dry out faster, while clay soils hold moisture longer and don't require watering as often.

For a newly seeded lawn, water every day for five to 10 minutes only. Your goal is to dampen the seeds without causing runoff that might wash them away or mar the surface with gullies. After the seeds sprout and the new grass is a half inch tall, water once a day for 15 to 20 minutes.

Please Feed Me

Even the healthiest lawn gets hungry and needs a solid meal. Twice a year, spring and fall, is the bare minimum most experts recommend for fertilization, though some add a feeding in the middle of the summer. But beware the common N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphate-potassium) fertilizers popular with most gardeners, says Gary; they don't provide everything your hungry grass needs. Instead, he recommends a complete fertilizer that includes micronutrients such as sulfur, copper and iron. "Just like you take a multivitamin, your grass needs one too," says Gary. In addition to regular fertilizing, he recommends an application of dolomitic lime every few years. This is because watering and fertilizing cause soil to become acidic over time and lime restores the pH while putting important minerals like calcium and magnesium back into the soil. In some Western areas, soils are naturally alkaline and may not have this problem, so it's best to test your soil's pH first.

Weeds, Go Away

No doubt about it, crabgrass is the bane of every lawn gardener's existence. But that doesn't mean herbicides are essential to a healthy lawn; in fact, many experts avoid them. The true secret to banishing weeds, they say, is to grow such healthy grass that it chokes out the invaders naturally. Mowing regularly helps too, because it tops off weeds like dandelions and crabgrass before they have a chance to scatter their seeds. When you do find yourself compelled to do battle against a path of weeds, Paul recommends using one of the new "natural" herbicides that derive their potency from corn gluten, salts from fatty acids or other nonchemical sources.

Air Supply

When grass gets too compacted, nutrients can't penetrate to the root system where they're most needed. That's where aeration — poking holes in your lawn to improve oxygen circulation — comes in. Most people aerate with a simple tool that looks like two hollow tubes attached to the end of a long handle. Of course, you can also just waltz around your lawn in spiked sports shoes — that works fairly well too.

Types of Grass

Some lawns have finer textures (think golf courses), while others feel like Astroturf under your feet. There are hundreds of types of grass available, and new varieties are developed every year.

As with all plant choices, climate plays a big role in determining which type of grass will work best for you — soil type, rainfall and other factors also come into it. As a general rule, cool-season grasses go dormant during the warm weather, and warm-season grasses go dormant during the coolest months of the year; in areas where it's possible to have a green lawn all year round, you want a mixture of both these types. "I've lived in seven different states and I've had seven different lawns," says master gardener John Griggs, who believes a local nursery is one of the best sources of information on which type of grass will work best in your area. Here's a list of the most popular choices:

Popular warm-season grasses:

• Zoysia grass

• Bermuda grass

• St. Augustine grass

• Bahia grass

• Centipede grass

Popular cool-season grasses:

• Bentgrass

• Bluegrass

• Fine fescues

• Tall fescues

• Ryegrass

Grasses for special needs:

• Shade: St. Augustine grass, fine fescue, tall fescue, ryegrass, bentgrass

• High traffic: Zoysia grass, improved Bermuda grass, Bahia grass, regular Bermuda grass, perennial ryegrass

Source: HGTV.com

Sell your home faster!

Selling your home? One way that you can make your home stand out and sell faster than all the others in your market is to have a Pre-Sale Professional Home Inspection conducted on your property. Here are a few reasons you should consider having your Home Inspected before you list it for sale.

1. A PRE-Sale Professional Home Inspection may identify any unknown problems with the house. This allows the seller to seek competitive bids to fix the problems, rather than rushing to fix everything immediately before a closing, spending extra $$$ to get things repaired in a hurry.

2. A potential buyer may choose to use the seller’s inspection and decline to have it inspected themselves. This can dramatically speed up a closing date.

3. Negotiations between buyers and sellers are streamlined with a PRE–Sale Professional Home Inspection. There are fewer things up for negotiation as they have already been disclosed and or fixed.

4. Buyers have more confidence when considering a house that has already been inspected. More confidence means MORE OFFERS!

5. The report generated by a PRE-Sale Professional Home Inspection can contain many positive elements. In effect, the report becomes an additional marketing tool, highlighting the unique features of the house.

6. If there are unresolved problems identified in a PRE-Sale Professional Home Inspection, the seller can have repair quotes from local qualified contractors printed out and ready, even stapling the quotes to the report. This will head off any attempts by buyers to “lowball” based on the condition of the house.

7. A Pre-Sale Professional Home Inspection helps the homeowner comply with full-disclosure real estate laws, governed by state laws. By focusing on the condition of your property, you are less likely to overlook a defect or material fact for which you could later be held liable.

Pre-listing inspections may eventually become as common as home staging, and the importance of having a home inspection as part of the home sales process cannot be understated. It protects all parties involved by providing valuable information so that educated decisions can be made. Whether you are selling your home, or buying your new home in Honolulu, Diamond Head Home Inspections is your source for Peace of Mind in Paradise. Call today to make your appointment.

Source: Matt Costa, Owner CHB Inspections.

Roofing 101

We at Dwell Inspect Arizona would like to give you professional insight into the home inspection process. With a greater understanding of how the home inspection is conducted and reported, you can better interpret the report presented to you and your client. As a professional and knowledgeable agent, you can be better prepared for the negotiating period following the inspection.

“How am I going to live today, in order to create the tomorrow I’m committed to?”

— Tony Robbins

When purchasing a home it is important to understand the material of the roofing and it expected lifetime. Additionally, it is beneficial know if there are preventive steps that can be taken to extend the life of the roof. A qualified and professional home inspector can evaluate both the condition of the roof covering and it surroundings to determine a future plan of action.

It is inevitable that roof coverings will deteriorate over time because natural elements are all working together to degrade the condition of the roof. The sun deteriorates organic ingredients in roofing materials, it heats and cools materials causing expansion and contraction, and it dehydrates the roof coverings causing it to show conditions of wear. Rain is just as detrimental, over time the water penetration washes away the protective qualities of the roof. The wind affects the functionality of the roof by blowing shingles off the roof, or when paired with the rain, it could force moisture underneath the shingles allowing water into the house. Additionally, landscaping, such as trees, can cause physical damage to a roof by the branches scraping across the installed coverings. In some scenarios, the tree could provide too much shade, which would not allow the roof to properly dry after a rain increasing the potential for destruction. Unfortunately, every element is working together to attack the condition of a home’s roof and it is only a factor of time before replacement would need to occur. With the understanding of the materials an informed homeowner can properly budget for repairs and replacement. 

There are many different types of roof covering that exist, but there are four types that are commonly seen in Hawaii: asphalt shingles, roll roofing, wood shingles/shakes, and clay tiles.

Asphalt shingles

Are made of asphalt-impregnated felted mat of cellulose or glass fibers which is coated with another asphalt formulation and covered with a granular material. This is currently the most commonly used material in roofing. A life expectancy of an asphalt shingled roof is between 15-25 years depending on the quality of the shingles chosen and the effecting elements.

Roll roofing

Made from the same material as asphalt shingles and it generally comes on 36” rolls. Quality of this product varies greatly and it is generally applied to roofs with lower or flatter slopes. Roll roofing is an inexpensive option and generally has a life expectancy of 5 - 10 years. 

Wood shingles/shakes

Pieces of wood that are cut and layered  to make a roof covering. With proper maintenance of a wood shingle/shake roof the life expectancy can be in the range of 50 years.        

Clay/Concrete tiles

Heavy, long lasting, weather resistant, and fireproof. A typical clay tile roof can be 4 to 5 times heavier than an asphalt roof and therefore will require additional load bearing structure. Tile roofs have a life expectancy of between 20 - 50 years but have been know to last 100 years depending on the quality of the tile, installation, and underlayment. 

Mold & Real Estate

The Law & You: Mold, a Fungus Among Us

To reduce liability, seek red flags, then defer to experts.

DECEMBER 2001 | BY ROBERT BRAND

Unquestionably, the disclosure du jour in residential real estate is mold.

Toxic mold, as it’s been called, is an increasingly important issue for real estate professionals. There are several reasons:

• Modern energy-efficient building practices provide a conducive environment for mold growth.

• Public awareness on the topic has grown.

• Litigation activity has increased after several recent multimillion-dollar judgments.

Recently, for example, a Texas court awarded a family $32 million from their insurance company for alleged mold exposure. The verdict included payments for property damage, mental anguish, punitive damages, and legal fees.

With judgments like that, you can be sure mold lawsuits are here to stay.

At the outset, you should understand three key points about mold liability:

1. As a real estate professional, you don’t need to become an expert on mold.

2. Large legal settlements don’t change what you’re responsible for disclosing.

3. Some basic and simple strategies can equip you to address this important issue.

Mold, a fungus, is ubiquitous, found everywhere indoors and out. It appears as a woolly growth on damp or decaying organic material. Most of it is harmless. But some varieties, such as the aspergillus and stachybotrus strains, are known to produce potent toxins under certain circumstances.

Mold needs two conditions to thrive: moisture, often resulting from leaky roofs, defective plumbing, drainage problems, and high-humidity rooms (such as laundry rooms); and a food source, such as certain types of insulation, wood, and carpeting.

Many times, mold is easily eliminated by removing the water source or applying common housekeeping practices, such as thorough cleaning with bleach. However, when the mold is concealed and conditions are favorable, it can take hold and release a steady stream of spores into the air, which people then breathe in.

Those who suffer from mold exposure complain most often of respiratory problems, skin irritation, and nervous system disorders. There is much disagreement in the medical community about the precise correlation between mold and health problems, but mold is a serious enough threat that it has its own page on the EPA website (go to http://www.epa.gov/iaq and click on Mold Resources).

Because major mold problems often start with slight indicators, you should be alert to red flags when conducting your visual inspections. The most common telltale signs are staining on walls and ceilings and a musty, mildewy odor. Discoloration can range from common water stains to the multicolored variety.

So what do you do when you detect a red flag or find out that red flags have been detected by a home inspector, a pest control company, or a prospective buyer? Federal and state protocols on mold exposure in residential structures range from minimal to nonexistent. In May the California Senate approved the country’s first mold bill, which sets standards for acceptable indoor levels and requires homesellers to disclose mold problems.

Because there are no standard practices yet, buyers often look to third parties in the transaction for toxic mold remediation. Real estate practitioners should be aware that home inspectors and pest control operators are rapidly adding disclaimer language to their reports to control their liability, and homeowners insurance coverage limitations are commonplace. Real estate companies should prepare for the possibility of being held liable for mold problems by buyer clients.

To reduce liability, consider the following points:

• During your visual inspections, pay specific attention to stains or discoloration on ceilings and walls, including the baseboard area, to pick up red flags associated with plumbing leaks and drainage problems.

• Pay attention to mold or mildew odors.

• If you notice any of these signs of potential mold problems, carefully word a written disclosure. Be sure not to offer expert analysis, avoiding terms such as “black mold” or “toxic mold.” Generic descriptions such as “mold type” or “mildew-like” might be used. Here’s an example: “Some staining observed on north wall of downstairs bedroom. Mildew-like odors also noted in master bedroom closet. Contact a qualified specialist for review.”

• Insist that potential buyers have their own, independent home inspections conducted.

• Become aware of the licensed experts in your area who are prepared to inspect for mold, and know when to advise (in writing) that potential buyers hire one of those experts. Some home inspectors are beginning to provide specific mold detection and diagnostic services. If necessary, recommend that your buyer clients retain a Certified Industrial Hygienist (CIH) or other environmental specialist to provide mold detection and lab analysis services.

• As always, avoid recommending a particular vendor; instead, give buyers a list of vendors or simply direct them to the type of service they need and let them choose one themselves.

• Consult a lawyer to determine whether a special mold disclosure disclaimer form should be developed and signed by the transaction principals.

Equipped with basic knowledge, and using some simple litigation prevention strategies, you’ll be better prepared to address this disclosure challenge effectively.

ARTICLE PROVIDED BY: (HTTP://REALTORMAG.REALTOR.ORG/LAW-AND-ETHICS/LAW/ARTICLE/2001/12/LAW-YOU-MOLD-FUNGUS-AMONG-US)

A Brief Guide to Mold & Moisture

THIS ARTICLE CAN BE FOUND ON THE EPA.GOV WEBSITE

THIS GUIDE PROVIDES INFORMATION AND GUIDANCE FOR HOMEOWNERS AND RENTERS ON HOW TO CLEAN UP RESIDENTIAL MOLD PROBLEMS AND HOW TO PREVENT MOLD GROWTH.

• Mold Basics

  • Why is mold growing in my home?

  • Can mold cause health problems?

  • How do I get rid of mold?

• Mold Cleanup

  • Who should do the cleanup?

• Mold Cleanup Guidelines

  • Tips and techniques

  • Bathroom Tip

• What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas

  • How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?

• Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips

  • Actions that will help to reduce humidity

  • Actions that will help prevent condensation
    Tips for Renters

  • Testing or sampling for mold

• Hidden Mold

• Cleanup and Biocides

We would like to thank Paul Ellringer, PE, CIH, for providing the photo of mold on the back of wallpaper in the Hidden Mold section. Should you like to use some of the photos used in this guide, higher-quality print versions are available in the Mold Gallery. These photos may be used for presentations and educational purposes without contacting EPA.

Please note that this document presents recommendations. EPA does not regulate mold or mold spores in indoor air. Find Frequently Asked Questions about mold and moisture.

MOLD BASICS

• The key to mold control is moisture control.

• If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.

• It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.

Why is mold growing in my home?

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.

Can mold cause health problems?

Molds are usually not a problem indoors unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold. Research on mold and its health effects is ongoing.

Magnified mold spores

Molds gradually destroy the things they grow on. You can prevent damage to your home and furnishings, save money, and avoid potential health problems by controlling moisture and eliminating mold growth

This [guidance] provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure. For more detailed information consult a health professional. You may also wish to consult your state or local health department.

How do I get rid of mold?

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don't fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back.

MOLD CLEANUP

Who should do the cleanup depends on a number of factors. One consideration is the size of the mold problem. If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, follow the guidelines. However:

If you already have a mold problem - ACT QUICKLY. Mold damages what it grows on. The longer it grows, the more damage it can cause.

Leaky window - mold is beginning to rot the wooden frame and windowsill.

• If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult EPA's Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document is applicable to other building types.
   

• If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold. Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations in EPA's Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
   

• If you suspect that the heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC) system may be contaminated with mold (it is part of an identified moisture problem, for instance, or there is mold near the intake to the system), consult EPA's guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before taking further action. Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold - it could spread mold throughout the building.
   

• If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water.
   

• If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.

MOLD CLEANUP GUIDELINES

Tips and techniques

The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up your mold problem. Professional cleaners or remediators may use methods not covered in this publication. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage. It may not be possible to clean an item so that its original appearance is restored.

• Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.
   

• Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.
   

• Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
   

• Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold (see discussions: What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas and Hidden Mold).
   

• Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces. Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.
   

• If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair, restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books. Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations.

Bathroom Tip

Places that are often or always damp can be hard to maintain completely free of mold. If there's some mold in the shower or elsewhere in the bathroom that seems to reappear, increasing ventilation (running a fan or opening a window) and cleaning more frequently will usually prevent mold from recurring, or at least keep the mold to a minimum.

WHAT TO WEAR WHEN CLEANING MOLDY AREAS

It is important to take precautions to LIMIT YOUR EXPOSURE to mold and mold spores.

Cleaning while wearing N-95 respirator, gloves and goggles.  Click on the image for a larger version.

• Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores. In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.) Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a nozzle on the front, others are made primarily of plastic or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap most of the mold spores from entering. In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator. Please note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires that respirators fit properly (fit testing) when used in an occupational setting; consult OSHA for more information (800-321-OSHA or www.osha.gov).
   

• Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended. When working with water and a mild detergent, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used. If you are using a disinfectant, a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or PVC (see Cleanup and Biocides). Avoid touching mold or moldy items with your bare hands.
   

• Wear goggles. Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are recommended. Avoid getting mold or mold spores in your eyes.

How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?

You must have completely fixed the water or moisture problem before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished.

• You should have completed mold removal. Visible mold and moldy odors should not be present. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage.
   

• You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup and it should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.
   

• People should have been able to occupy or re-occupy the area without health complaints or physical symptoms.
   

• Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer. If you have concerns or questions consult our Frequently Asked Questions database and ask a question if you don't find what you need.

MOISTURE AND MOLD PREVENTION AND CONTROL TIPS

Moisture Control is the Key to Mold Control

Mold growing on the surface of a unit ventilator. Click on the image for a larger version.

Condensation on the inside of a windowpane.

• When water leaks or spills occur indoors - ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
   

• Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
   

• Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
   

• Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
   

• Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, a small, inexpensive ($10-$50) instrument available at many hardware stores. 
   

• If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.

Actions that will help to reduce humidity

• Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
   

• Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.
   

• Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.

Actions that will help prevent condensation

Mold growing on a wooden headboard in a room with high humidity. Click on the image for a larger version.

• Reduce the humidity.

• Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.

• Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.

• Increase air temperature.

Renters: Report all plumbing leaks and moisture problems immediately to your building owner, manager, or superintendent. In cases where persistent water problems are not addressed, you may want to contact local, state, or federal health or housing authorities. You can also contact your state health department.

Rust is an indicator that condensation occurs on this drainpipe. The pipe should be insulated to prevent condensation. Click on the image for a larger version.

Is sampling for mold needed? In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary. Since no EPA or other federal limits have been set for mold or mold spores, sampling cannot be used to check a building's compliance with federal mold standards. Surface sampling may be useful to determine if an area has been adequately cleaned or remediated. Sampling for mold should be conducted by professionals who have specific experience in designing mold sampling protocols, sampling methods, and interpreting results. Sample analysis should follow analytical methods recommended by the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA), the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), or other professional organizations.

HIDDEN MOLD

Water stain on a basement wall -- locate and fix the source of the water promptly. Click on the image for a larger version.

You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).

Investigating hidden mold problems

Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden mold problem, consider hiring an experienced professional.

CLEANUP AND BIOCIDES

Biocides are substances that can destroy living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immune-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area; a background level of mold spores will remain - these spores will not grow if the moisture problem has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia because toxic fumes could be produced.

Please note:  Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed.

(http://www.epa.gov/mold/moldguide.html)

WHAT DOES A HOME INSPECTOR DO?

WHAT DOES A HOME INSPECTOR DO?

What does a Home Inspector do? This is such a loaded question but an extremely important topic to understand. Buying your first home is one of the biggest decisions you will make in your lifetime. It’s filled with excitement and nerves all rolled into a bundle of questions. And, who better to answer some of those questions than an experienced home inspector who carries both knowledge and patience to better help you understand your (future) home.

But, how do you find the right home inspector? A trusted real estate agent is a great lead in finding the right partnership. So, look at your real estate agent and your home inspector as your fantastic team of people who are there to give you knowledge as you embark on the adventure of finding your new home. 

Home inspectors examine properties to ensure they have adequate sanitation and drainage systems to satisfy regulations regarding public health. Inspector duties can include surveying the condition of the surrounding land along with the HVAC systems, interior plumbing and electrical systems, roof, attic, floors. windows and doors, foundation, basement and structural components to name a few. But, more importantly, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs.

Having a Home Inspector who you can trust and respect is important when making a decision and another reason to trust your real estate agent to help guide you in the right direction. So, suit up with the A-Team at Dwell Inspect and we will give you our 200% guarantee or we will personally pay you have your home re-inspected. 

Raising the bar...again!

Hello!

We hope each and every one of you are enjoying our cooler Fall weather! Although it has been a little while since we last sent out a newsletter, please stick with us as we have some exciting updates to share with you all.

As you know the market has been hot, and we fortunately were very busy inspecting throughout the “summer slow down.” The reason for the quotes is that we actually saw an uptick in business during the period where we generally expect business to level off or even slow slightly because of the predictable hot summer months. The area where we were most surprised was that we had the opportunity to inspect several luxury homes this summer that were 7,000 square feet+ (and more than $4 million dollars) that required 2-3 inspectors just to finish in a timely manner. 

Can you believe that it is already September? We first wanted to start off by saying THANK YOU! As our valued partners, and often times advocates for Dwell Inspect Arizona, we sincerely appreciate you, your clients, and your business. In a short period of time, we have made a substantial impact on the Arizona market and built lasting relationships with some of the top agents around the valley. We are truly grateful for your continued support.  

The second reason for this email is to update you on some exciting changes that we have been working on this year to help us continue to grow and operate a successful business.

New Team Members:

We are so thankful for the overwhelmingly warm reception that we have received in this market, and pleased to be able to announce the addition of three new team members this year.

Our first addition to the team (and someone that many of you have already had the pleasure of working with) is Richard “Dickie” Armendariz. We actually first met Dickie when we were inspecting a house directly across the street from his personal home. We began talking and immediately knew that he would be a wonderful addition to our growing team. He has over thirty years experience with the Phoenix Fire Department, is a retired fire captain, and has continuously held his contractor’s license for over twenty years. 

Additionally, we're also thrilled to announce the addition of Jerame Tassoul to our team. Jerame has worked in building energy efficiency and project management for some of the city’s biggest builders. His Midwest friendly attitude is a compliment to his building knowledge and excellent client-driven service which make him a valued inspector and team member.

Lastly, our most recent addition to the office is Lindsay Fee who joins us with a background in Fashion Merchandising as well as Commercial Real Estate and brings her valued skill set from working in a corporate setting to our Office Manager role. She is an Arizona native and loves being able to raise her daughter in the Valley she calls home. She is ecstatic to share her knowledge of the area with our current and new clients; she looks forward to continuing to grow with us here at Dwell Inspect.

As our team continues to grow, you can expect our product and service to remain consistent. To become a member of our team, in addition to the state requirements, each inspector must continue their inspection training in order to meet our own Dwell Inspect standards. This may include an additional two to three months of inspection training, technical training, communication training, and report writing skills. Finally, prior to sending any inspector into the field, they have their very own “Dwell Test House” where yours truly plays the role of a difficult client and the inspector is measured with a number of metrics. They must pass in order to be sent into the field as an independent representative of our team. In order to offer the best service, we expect our inspectors to be the best.

Software/Report updates:

In order to deliver a better product to both home buyers and sellers, we are excited to announce that we have changed software formats (see software intro: https://youtu.be/nYKS2WTtqj8). The report will be professional, clean, easy-to-read and organized. Additionally, the report creation is more intuitive and therefore inspectors will be able to complete more detailed reports and deliver them faster. As we continue to improve with this new software, our goal is to move from same-day delivery to on-site delivery (for many houses), thus providing your client with news about their home even faster.

Changing our software platform is fantastic news for real estate agents too! The software offers a BINSR request list tool that helps agents create a professional, clean, and fast BINSR request. This tedious task that used to take hours, can now be created in minutes (for a tutorial visit: https://youtu.be/Ao1Hfjv-b3w)   

Inspection guarantees:

My final thoughts for this newsletter include the promises that we will continue to make to you and your clients. We have worked hard to earn your trust and be your preferred referral for home inspections. As we grow, we understand that it is important to continue to foster that trust. Starting soon, each inspection will include a series of company backed guarantees, and remember each inspection comes with our own personal 200% guarantee. If for any reason your client is not satisfied with the inspection, we will refund their inspection service fee and pay for another inspection company to inspect the same property.

We are excited to be a company that can embrace market changes and continue to offer both real estate agents and clients with better, more effective property inspections. We believe that we have the opportunity and resources to improve the lives of many people, and we look forward to many years of continued growth and exciting opportunities together! 

Thank you,
Sean Garvey

Dwell Inspect Arizona, CEO
Dwell Inspect Georgia, Partner
Diamond Head Home Inspections, Founder

12/16/18 "You are the average of the five people you spend the most time with."

"You are the average of the five people you spend the most time with."

- Jim Rohn

I think about this quote quite often. In its simplicity, it means you will effectively absorb both the good and the bad traits of those that you choose to share the majority of your time. While this is not a new concept, I've recently come to understand that this applies to your business life as well. Not necessarily your clients and/or associates, you can continue to serve regardless of who is employing you as long as your focus and mission remain consistent. Rather, I'm referencing those that comprise your team. By team, I mean those that help you to accomplish your mission. In our business, I mean our inspectors, of course, but also our marketers, office managers, termite specialists, sewer inspectors, uniform providers, and our professional referrals. For a real estate agent it may mean, mortgage professional, title specialist, transaction coordinator, a home inspection team, and professional referrals.

Surround yourself with partners in the business that elevate the service that you can provide. Be surrounded by those who do the job right the first time. Do you know what happens when you have to correct someone's work two, three, or even four times? You waste time, energy, money and focus. You derail your thoughts and your frusturation increases. You spend more cleaning up shoddy work. If you expect your team to be professionals, then you'll receive professional results.

Your reputation depends on it. The product that you deliver not only defines who you are, but who you want to be. If you allow your team to cut corners, then you get a product that is just good enough. If you knowingly hire someone, in order to save a few bucks, who delivers a poor product, you suffer. Be careful who you hire, because they can define your quality of work.

Do not be afraid to change quickly. Choose the best in the moment, if something better comes along, choose that. Do not be afraid of others judging you for pivoting. Do not be ashamed if you made a mistake. Be proud that you are steadily finding ways to improve your product, service, and business.

If you give the best you'll be recognized, but if you provide a mediocre product, you'll be a commodity. 
 

Best,
Sean Garvey
Dwell Inspect Arizona
(480) 867 4599
www.dwellinspectaz.com

11/18/18 - Living with gratitude

"Be thankful for what you have; you'll end up having more. If you concentrate on what you don't have, you will never, ever have enough."

- Oprah Winfrey

Since I was a child, Thanksgiving has been my favorite holiday. As the years have progressed some of the reasons have changed, but fundamentally they have remained the same. One of the aspects that I really appreciate about Thanksgiving is that it lacks commercialism. It is about giving, rather than receiving. It is about coming together with friends and family, to reminisce about the year and to bond over the many things we are thankful for. It is about having gratitude.

Living with gratitude allows you the focus to reflect on your surroundings and appreciate the life you've created, but more powerfully, it allows you to observe how it makes you feel. In having gratitude, it allows you to acknowledge your responsibility to give and provides you with the awareness of how one simple act of giving can change the direction of someone else's path. Having gratitude forces you to share that feeling with a friend, a family member, a client, or even a stranger.

My wife Megan and I are grateful. We appreciate you and your clients' trust. We appreciate your friendship and support, and we wish you and yours a Happy Thanksgiving!

Best,
Sean Garvey
Dwell Inspect Arizona
(480) 867 4599
www.dwellinspectaz.com